Can I ruin this turkey?: Today So Far

What these NW chefs (and others) are cooking up, and what it means.

This post originally appeared in KUOW's Today So Far newsletter for November 18, 2022.

A couple years ago I made goose for Thanksgiving dinner. Last year, I made duck. Both times ... it didn't go well.

This year, we decided to stop fighting tradition and are going with a turkey, and the usual roast vegetables, cranberries, and so forth. I'll be making cherry pie while I'm at it. Also this year, I'll have some backup. My ma-in-law has secured sticky rice and Thai sausage (though she says it might be Lao, but really, "You know, sausage. It has herbs. It's good!").

I've also noticed that family just shows up with food at such gatherings. So that's comforting, but still, it feels somewhat odd this year. Nina and I moved since the goose and duck dinners, and brought her mom along with us. That means more potential for family around holidays (not my sister and her husband though; they've already started decorating for Christmas, so they're not invited). So when I think about all of this — I've never had the opportunity to screw up Thanksgiving dinner in front of so many people before. This should be an experience to remember...

Chef Shota Nakajima is likely to have a very different experience this year, and he's cooking duck! He's the owner of Taku and Kobo restaurants on Capitol Hill, and therefore, he knows what he's doing. Chef Nakajima tells KUOW's Soundside that he will brine the duck for two days, then blanche it in hot water, before drying and roasting it up in the oven to make it crispy. The duck will be stuffed with mochi rice and hijiki (a type of seaweed).

Nakajima wasn't the only chef who Soundside quizzed about their holiday plans. Corie Ratliff, owner of Mama Corie's Kitchen in Yakima, is keeping up family traditions with a broccoli puff dish. James Lim, owner of Watson's Counter in Seattle's Ballard neighborhood, is going for an American / Korean combo meal.

For Ratliff, holiday cooking is special because of family, not just the ones at the table, but the people and recipes that came before. Her broccoli puff dish originated with her great grandmother. Lim shared a similar sentiment, saying, "my mom cooked as a labor of love. My grandma cooked as a labor of love. And so for me to cook is just that — it's a labor of love for community."

Over at Seattle Now, Andrew Walsh with the podcast "Too Beautiful to Live" is having a "warm and cozy" dinner with a small group of family. His main goal is to not ruin brussels sprouts. Author Jodi-Ann Burey will spend the day at home with her dog, writing a book, though she aims to get leftovers from her neighbor, or any non-burnt brussels sprouts from Andrew. Hear that conversation here.

Chef Nakajima told Soundside that he is also celebrating alone this year, with his duck, to take time for reflection and gratitude. That's the thing that can be nice about holidays. Whether you lean into, or cut away, the myths surrounding it all, they really are what you make them, and what you put into them.

I'm not exactly sure how to cook/ruin a turkey. So far, I figure you can't go wrong with butter, garlic, and rosemary. Maybe some lemon. That should cook up nicely in, like, say 30 minutes-ish ... right? I am open to any ideas and tips from TSF readers out there.

Despite not going at it alone this year, I think I lean more into Chef Nakajima's approach — focus on gratitude. If there is one thing I can expect from holidays like Thanksgiving, and the inevitable chaos, is that I am certainly thankful when it's over.

What about the TSF community? What is everyone else planning for next week? What will be on your table, and who will be there? Feel free to send me comments at dyer@kuow.org.

Check out Soundside's full segment on Thanksgiving chefs here.

AS SEEN ON KUOW

Employees at a Starbucks in Seattle's University District strike on November 17, 2022. The local strike was part of a nationwide demonstration on Starbucks' annual Red Cup Day, when customers who order a holiday drink receive free reusable cups. (Katie Campbell / KUOW)

DID YOU KNOW?

Washington's first state governor was inaugurated on this day, Nov. 18, in 1889. Elisha Ferry, not only was the state's first governor, he was also previously governor of the Washington territory for two terms. Also, when you see a photo of him, he definitely looks like a guy named "Elisha." Prior to his career in the Northwest, he was a lawyer in Illinois. As such, he was associated with Abraham Lincoln, and in turn, Ulysses S. Grant. He joined the Union Army during the Civil War and helped organize forces in Illinois. That's probably how he got the gig of surveyor general of the Washington territory immediately after the war, a role that led him to be governor.

Ferry has a few notable legacies in the region, some of which linger to this day. Ferry County is named after him. He was instrumental in getting the Northern Pacific Railroad to build a line to Olympia. And, as the territorial governor, he pushed through legislation denying women the right to vote in Washington. Women's right to vote in Washington was debated ever since it became a territory. Seattle founder Arthur Denny was a known supporter of legislation that would grant all (white) women the right to vote, but he was unsuccessful in getting it passed through the Legislature. Ferry's legislation was spurred by Susan B. Anthony's visit to the state Legislature in October 1871. She made a speech, arguing for woman's suffrage. Less than a month later, the Legislature passed Ferry's measure denying women the right to vote. Anthony's visit, however, prompted the formation of the Washington Woman Suffrage Association, which continued the fight in the region.

Washington's voting regulations, however, were overruled by Congress in 1919.

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